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What to seems to matter more to an insurance company is years since the last fire. Our typical insurance company, USAA, refused to insure us when we first moved in, so we had to find a different insurance company. I think we used Farmers Insurance for about 5-6 years.What I'm wondering is the extent to which having robust fire regulations, i.e., the buffers, fire-resistant plants, walls, sprinklers, etc., provides a benefit in terms of the actuarial math of insurance companies (who we desperately need to keep doing business here), regardless of their specific utility for any one homeowner. In other words, I imagine that an insurance company would be more likely to agree to insure a house in a fire-prone area, including potentially agreeing to insurance the house at a lower cost, if they knew that house was subject to comprehensive fire regulations. To the extent this is true, I think I'd tend to view the regulations favorably even if some of the requirements didn't appear to have much utility in my specific case.
The only thing that may help is building a concrete block house with a steel frame and installing steel fire shutters. You might get an insurance discount for that. I don’t know.
Not all of Poway may be in a high fire zone. The "Very High Fire Hazard Area" on the Poway GIS indicates the areas subject to intense fire regulations, and typing your in-laws' address into that system will tell you if they are in one or not.To your point, my in-laws house is totally surrounded by vegetation with zero buffer. The whole neighborhood is. There are no walls for fire protection that I can think of either. I think most of it was built in the 70s and 80s before there were fire regulations like there are today, or that was even much of a design consideration.
That also depends on the soil and water table. On this lot, the soil is decomposed granite, which means it percolates moisture readily. This is good for septic systems and wells, but it will give you a perpetual moisture problem in your soon-to-be-leaky underground bunker. Rain drainage into your bunker would also be a serious problem your architects would have to fix. (Not to mention the expense of having to jackhammer through solid rock to make it.)That or a doomsday bunker. I'd think you could get a competitive insurance quote on one of those.
The idea with the 100 foot buffer and wall is reducing the height of the flying embers so they don't hit the roof. Ember hits roof eaves, eaves catch on fire, heat sensors in the roof trigger the fire sprinkler system, house is totaled. Stucco, glass, steel screen door doesn't burn and you can put gravel and rocks around the base. Turn on the irrigation and draw down all of the blinds in case you lose a window from impact. (The most unavoidable thing is smoke damage.)Even with a 100-foot buffer and wall, if a wildfire rages through your area then I think your house will still probably experience serious/expensive damage due to all the embers flying everywhere.
Not all of Poway may be in a high fire zone. The "Very High Fire Hazard Area" on the Poway GIS indicates the areas subject to intense fire regulations, and typing your in-laws' address into that system will tell you if they are in one or not.
The idea with the 100 foot buffer and wall is reducing the height of the flying embers so they don't hit the roof. Ember hits roof eaves, eaves catch on fire, heat sensors in the roof trigger the fire sprinkler system, house is totaled. Stucco, glass, steel screen door doesn't burn and you can put gravel and rocks around the base. Turn on the irrigation and draw down all of the blinds in case you lose a window from impact. (The most unavoidable thing is smoke damage.)
That also depends on the soil and water table. On this lot, the soil is decomposed granite, which means it percolates moisture readily. This is good for septic systems and wells, but it will give you a perpetual moisture problem in your soon-to-be-leaky underground bunker. Rain drainage into your bunker would also be a serious problem your architects would have to fix. (Not to mention the expense of having to jackhammer through solid rock to make it.)
With the water, will come the huge local earwig population, who like anywhere that is dark, wet, and has wood to eat, namely your furniture. After the earwigs die, you have to get rid of every dead corpse or the ants come to eat the earwig corpses, and all of your carefully prepared doomsday rations along with them. Whether an insurance company will realize this, I have no idea, but I do, and I'm telling you it's probably not worth what insurance money you will save.
Ironically, the bunker would be even WORSE for fire danger in that respect because all of the embers hit the ground eventually and could end up gutting the bunker of any flammable items inside - you'd have to seal it very carefully. There's also no riding out the fire inside because of the smoke inhalation issue. You'd run out of air. Putting your house close to the ground, where the fire is the fiercest and most certain, also does not strike me as a good plan for escape in the event of a sudden blaze.
Telltale signs the house was under fire regulations during construction would be a fire bell and an outlet on the side of the house to relieve pressure from the sprinkler system on a seasonal basis.Next time I'm there I'll be interested to take a look around and see if I can spot any differences between houses in the hazard area and those outside of it.
It’s what is, or is not, under the trees. Look for signs of strimming.Not sure how they draw that line since the whole neighborhood seems uniformly tree covered.
I suppose sending pictures to the insurance company of fire control measures and asking for a discount could be a viable course of action.So the buffer/wall do serve a real minimization function as far as potential property damage goes, i.e., by helping avoid the flying-ember-hits-roof-and-totals-house scenario you described.